Belize

Our trip to Belize was utterly extreme; we got on a local bus from Chetumal, not realising that all the buses that leave from there are recycled school buses from the States! They are covered with signs that say, “Your childrens’ SAFETY is our BUSINESS” and “”Pupil regulations for safe travel”. It also means that the seats are really tiny and that the windows are all at a very low height. They *really* pack those buses tight; even the walkway was crammed with a really eclectic mix of people. Belize and Central America is an incredibly ethnicly diverse region and the bus was like a rainbow. It wasn’t all picturesque though; they have to hire a guard as well as a driver in the bus to keep order, and there were a few stops as some young guys at the back were being pretty threatning (Jon said it reminded him of the C11). Pulling up in Belize City after 4 and a half hours, things got even more hairy as our bus stopped to gawk at a landrover being held up by an armed group of robbers. Then, as we got off the bus, Jon and I got collared by this guy who shuttled us in to his taxi that had a shattered windscreen, and we drove around some very slummy looking areas of the City. As tourists, you have to be quite judgemental without seeing everything sometimes and so Jon and I decided that 10 minutes in Belize City was quite enough. After Jon was accosted by a crack addict whilst he tried to change some money and we decided that it was time to flee: we jumped on the nearest speed boat and headed out to the Islands in search of a safe (even if expensive) tourist bubble.

After about half an hour travelling on a speedboat that was driving at a 45 degree angle over the water, crashing in to waves and chucking us about, the water started to turn lighter and greener and we pulled up at a small dock on Ambergris Caye. Walking down the dock, Jon and I saw a sting ray swimming below us in the clear water – little details like that really get me and remind me how far away I am from home – there really is nothing like that in the Thames! That said, the whole island is really quite breathtaking – it looks like a film set or something. Our hotel is literally built on the white sand and overlooks these turquoise waters that have patches of emerald and navy blue; the roads are all made of sand; there are palm trees everywhere and the local people are quite stereotypically Carribean. I love to hear Kriol, here is a little taster from my guidebook:

I’ll see you later = Ah wahn si yu layta

Fine thank you = Aarait

I am thirsty = Ah tosti

Jon and I made friends with a load of local kids who were able to teach us a bit more as we swam off of one of the local piers. The water really is undescribably beautiful; and if you put on goggles you can see hundreds of fish clustered just below the surface just a hair’s breadth away from you. The kids showed us how to feed them from our hands, pointed out the fish that would explode when you touch them and highlighted poisonous eels. Unfortunately I really hurt myself jumping off one of the piers as I sank too deep in the water and hurt my ear. One of the local strutting youths, a guy who goes by the name of “Wicked”, told me how to get the water out of it: you have to warm some sea water in your mouth, spit it in to your hand and pour it in to your ear. I was a bit dubious at frst, but it made me feel a bit better.

As well as swimming, jon and I have rented out bikes that have neither gears nor breaks – to stop you simply have to back pedal! We stopped on our bike trail so that Jon could climb monkey-style up a coconut tree . He managed to bring a few down and (after a lot of effort) we managed to get the thing open, drink the milk and feast on fresh coconut. Then we biked on to a lake where there are about 40 wild crocodiles, some of which are 13 feet long! Although we didn’t see any, the locals often come and tempt the crocodiles out of the water with fresh chickens to entertain tourists. Apparantly some of them will even swim across the lake for $30 – what kind of a stunt show is that?!

Today has been great because Naomi and Gemma (some best friends from my old school) have managed to make it to the island to stay with us on their travels. We’ve taken them to our local burrito bar and to our favourite swimming point. It’s so wonderful to have some more females around (and I don’t think Jon minds being the only guy either…).

Anyway, I’m off to spend the rest of the day in a hammock…tomorrow it’s Guatemala.